DELHI
We arrived in Delhi rather nervous and worried after reading all the scaremongering in the guide book, but what a pleasant relief. Yes, you still get harassed every thirty seconds and tauts trying to con you but we were now well travelled and wise to these kinds of people and the tricks of their trade.
For example, we eventually found our hotel in a backstreet off a backstreet, checked into our room and wanted a shower to find it was stone cold. Thus, rang reception and spoke to the hotel manager and owner to be told; "sir/madam, peoples don't want hot water in this weather". He had a point, it was still nearly 50'C outside but when you enter an air conditioned hotel room, that instantly cools you down, you don't want a cold shower! Following a light hearted 'discussion' he turned on our hot water!
We visited the famous bazaars in Dehli, where there are hundreds of stalls selling almost anything you need, this is the man to come and see if you need a drill bit....
A second example; we visited the oldest Muslim temple in India named Jama Masjid. It can hold 25,000 people, has two of the highest minarets and you can climb 40 metres high to the top of one. We read that it is free to enter, only having to pay 100 rupees (£1) to take in a camera. We arrive at the gate to be told by a 'worker' that we have to pay 300 each just to enter! We had by this point grown tired and wise of the scams so proceeded an argument with this man. He was adamant so we went back down the steps to check the signs, incase the guidebook was now dated, but gladly the signs only confirmed what we knew! He was reluctant but then started with cameras; I said I only had one so his reply was; "mobile phone camera"?!...really..?! Finally we enter with just paying the camera Rs100 and wondered around.
If you are unaware of the Muslim religion; prior to praying, individuals have to wash their feet, ankles, hands and arms. The temple had a large square pool in the middle of the courtyard where visitors did such practice. We joined them to watch and to cool our feet, as the stone floor of the temple was so hot we feared second degree burns to the soles of our bare feet (having had to remove our flip flops at the entrance as is customary).
So we were the 'talk of the temple or pool', everyone staring at us and children giggling and pointing. But then a group of four girls and just one boy came and sat next to us to chat. I say chat, the only English they could speak was 'Hi' and 'Hello' but by them sitting with us everyone else around the pool started to smile, wave hello and we seemed to be accepted into the atmosphere; it was a great experience we thoroughly enjoyed!
THE HIMALAYAS...MANALI & MCLEOD GANJ
We had always planned to travel to and around Nepal on our bucket list. The first earthquake hit Nepal the day before we left the UK but we had contacts in both Kathmandu and Pokhara who we contacted to confirm their safety. We were still going to go to complete some voluntary medical aid/humanitarian aid and some trekking, until the second earthquake hit! We decided then it wouldn't be fair to be trekking and exploring the country whilst they are in mourning and their country is a disaster zone.
So what to do for the two weeks instead; visit the Himalayas still but the Indian side! We went from Delhi, on a 15 hour bus journey, to a place called Old Manali, a gorgeous village, 2000 metres up in the Himalayas with the Beas river running through the middle of it. Our room overlooked views of snow-capped mountains whilst sitting on our balcony, bathed in sun whilst listening to the relaxing sound of the the river below...idyllic!
We did some trekking around the area and up a mountain or two and generally relaxed which is difficult in India.
Rosie played with some monkeys in a nearby forest, they had a fascination with bottles...
A street performer earning some money in Manali....
The ever changing weather in Manali, which was a welcomed relief!
From here we took another bus just 7 hours West across the Himalayas to a place called McLeod Ganj. This place is known as 'little Tibet', due to the vast number of Tibetans that are living in exile following China's dictatorship. This is the Dalai Lama's home where he travelled, across the Himalayas in 1959. We visited a museum which highlighted the ordeal that Tibet and Tibetans have had to live with for a number of years. Still to this day there are nearly daily occurrences of Tibetan's carrying out self-immolation (setting themselves on fire whilst shouting what they believe in) in an attempt to gain media coverage, but we, in the Western world rarely hear of these martyrs due to China's governing?!
We visited the Tibetan Temple where, if you are Buddhist, you walk clockwise around the building, whilst holding your beads in your left hand and spinning prayer wheels with your right.
We found a path around the back of the Temple which led up and around the side of the mountain. This path was strewn with prayer flags and constant 'stations' of prayer wheels you must turn when you walk past, alongside hundreds of monkeys which loved to play in the flags!
Due to the height of McLeod Ganj, it was quite a number of degrees cooler than where we had previously been used to so Rosie was cold. As you can imagine, hundreds of market stalls and shops selling Yak fur shawls (the warmest you can get) so Rosie had to get one and not take it off; it is sociably acceptable to wear a rug whilst in public there!
McLeod Ganj was amazing, friendly locals, Tibetan monks and a more tranquil place due to the numerous prayer flags hung from trees and buildings, moving in the wind like a birds wings as it flies. Tibetan people are so kind that they leave food out for stray dogs and feed birds on a daily basis.
AMRITSAR
Our last stop in India, the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion; 'The Golden Temple'. Where pilgrims travel from all corners of the globe to show their respects to their god.
We got very excited as the second night in Amritsar we visited the Pakistan border; Attari. Every night they have a ceremony of closing the gates and lowering the flags; both India versus Pakistan. Where hundreds of locals and foreigners gather each night to witness the spectacular marching, dancing, shouting and competition between the two countries. India predominantly has more spectators than Pakistan so tend to make more noise but it is equal pride and honour! It was fantastic and one of our highlights of India!
So we visited the Golden Temple, regarded by some as more special and magical than the Taj Mahal. And by the way, it was mandatory for me to cover my long locks of hair!
It was incredible to see Sikhism at its most sacred, as you enter throughout the gates you are greeted with a large pool, with a Golden temple, accessed by a walkway, in the middle of it. The golden dome is said to be gilded with 750kg of pure gold. The dome represents an inverted lotus flower, a symbol of Sikh devotees' aim to live a pure life. Sikh's wash in the pool and line up to enter the temple. Sikhism seems to be a very equal and friendly religion, for example, everyone is deemed equal, whether that be a man or woman, unlike some other Indian faiths.
It is a very 'giving' religion, food and money to the poor and looking after friends and family in times of their lives. The temple, in peak periods, feeds 80,000 people per day, all free and run on donations. We found the food hall and made our way to the queue. We were issued with a metal bowl, plate and spoon and followed the crowd to a huge room, where on the floor, people sat with legs crossed on mats facing one another and a gangway down the middle for the 'servers'. We sat down in the row and before we could put our utensils on the floor, it was being filled with rice, Dhal curry, two chapatis and kheer - a coconut rice pudding. It was great, eating next to and opposite locals whilst being overwhelmed by the atmosphere and madness of it all; another highlight for us!
We then went into the area where they wash up, which was amazing to watch; a feat of unimaginable proportions to wash, dry and clean up after all these people.
And with that we went to the airport to catch a plane to Delhi, with a transit at Hong Kong and finally to arrive in Tokyo, Japan.
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