Japan

TOKYO

After 6 weeks in India we arrived after a long journey, into Tokyo; to say it was exciting is an understatement! I reverted back to childhood, seeing all the skyscrapers and exciting shops. We made our way to our little apartment which would be our home for the next 4 nights. Whilst waiting to be let into our apartment, we made eye contact with an old Japanese man who lived opposite and was gardening, he smiled and waved and we instantly liked him.

We made our way to a small coffee shop around the corner, where we drank coffee from bowls and admired the beautiful crockery, this is when our neighbour arrived and was smiling at us, he bought us some biscuits which made us very happy! 

The culture is a very polite one in Japan, it's amazingly clean, and people are very kind and willing to help. There's a few 'rules' like queuing to get onto the underground train, sitting with your legs together and receiving money with two hands, but it all leads to a slick moving operation, the trains run on time, there's no pushing and shoving and we instantly fell in love with their culture. 

Tokyo can only be described as exciting and amazing! We wandered around the streets, taking in the bright lights and the designer atmosphere. There is a lot of money in Tokyo, and we looked a little out of place.

We visited an area called Shinjuku, known as the place 'you can get anything at any time' I'll leave that to your imaginations! It was nothing short of ridiculous, streets filled with flashing lights like in a fair. This is the place to visit 'Robot Restaurants' where people dress as robots and serve food during a robot show - I got caught up in it all and wanted to go, but when we saw the entry price of £40 Sam wasn't so keen, a good job really as I think I'd want to make a swift exit after 15 minutes..

We discovered an amazing restaurant where you order your meat which comes raw and you cook it at the table on a little BBQ. After much deliberation on what meat we'd pick (we had choices including pig anus, womb and oesophagus) we picked a simple beef and pork steak, it was the best meat I've ever tasted. During our meal a meat auction broke out, we had no idea what was going on but it was fun! Needless to say, we revisited this restaurant! 

After reading how good Tokyo national museum was we decided to visit, it had some interesting items in, but we decided once you've seen one piece of old pottery, you've seen them all, so we weren't all that excited by the museum, we left and watched some street performers in a local park and ate ice cream. We visited a nearby temple which has a flame burning in its grounds. The flame is for the Hiromisha victims and was started by a man called Tatsuo Yamamoto, his wish was that the flame would continue to burn until production of nuclear weapons seized. Surrounding the flame are many origami birds, a Japanese legend says that anyone who folds 1000 origami birds will be granted one wish. Sadako Sasaki was 24 months old when she was exposed to the radiation from the Hiroshima atomic bomb, she developed leukaemia. And at the age of 12 she began to make 1000 origami birds, her wish being that she would be cured of leukaemia, unfortunately she died before she completed her goal. 

Later that day we used the Shibuya crossing in the centre of Tokyo where as many as 2500 people can cross at one time....

Our last day in Tokyo was spent by tasting some amazing sushi, eating crispy Crème doughnuts, visiting our local park (which is famous in Japan) and entering the wonderful world of gaming! We'd seen many amusement arcades and we decided to go into one to see what the hype was about. It was filled with people addictively playing games... and they were good. Clearly months worth of visits to play games such as guitar hero or a high tech version of a dance mat. Needless to say, we weren't very good at any games, but it was an experience!

Our local park was a haven in a big city, filled with live music and packed with people having picnics, we loved it! We sat and people watched for a while and observed some of the 'alternative' fashion items people wore, spotting a man in a tight ladies swimming costume was a highlight, but he carried it off quite well!

After an amazing few days we packed our bags again and bid a farewell to Tokyo, off to see Mt Fuji.....

FUJIYOSHIDA

As soon as we disembarked the Thomas train in Fujiyoshida we were dumb struck (not for the first time) to see Mt. Fuji in all her glory, with a whisper of a cloud just leaving the summit.  After a time of admiration we made our way by foot to the 'Ryokan' we had booked to stay.  A Ryokan is a traditional home, with paper thin walls, and sliding doors with tatami mats covering the floors where you sleep on with just a futon.  After a little map reading and humping our backpacks we found it, it was perfect; everything that you would imagine a traditional Japanese house to be.

Relaxing in the Ryokan...

By this time it was early evening so we went for an explore and to figure out what to do for the next few days.  We found a supermarket and stocked up on some necessities and then came across a Japanese restaurant so we decided to eat here. We hadn't realised but Fujisan was a relatively small and extremely quiet town which was a welcomed relief after Tokyo, as we walked the streets, it was eerily quiet with no one around. So as we enter this restaurant, just the chef/waiter and possibly owner behind the counter and a man and his son eating at the far end of it. They all greeted us with the usual friendliness we had become used to in Japan and so we sat at the bar/counter to peruse the menu.  We chose Octopus (because you have to try these things) amongst some other delicacies and ordered two Japanese beers, to which the man at the end of the counter said, in Japanese as no one really spoke much English, he would buy the beer for us to welcome us, which we managed to work out through polite hand gestures and pointing etcetera. As we had previously thought, and now confirmed, the Japanese are extremely friendly and welcoming and have treated us as family and friends wherever we have visited and stayed. 

Day two in Fuijiyoshida; included in our Ryokan stay was a traditional Japanese breakfast which I wasn't all that looking forward to as being a typical English man, I like a good cup of tea with some toast and jam. However, we were presented with salmon, a bowl of Miso soup, a bowl of salad, cherries, vegetables and of course a bowl of rice; but I must say, it was fantastic and I looked forward to it the following day!  

We found a map and a trek which would take around 5 hours up a mountain the opposite side of the valley to Mt.Fuji, giving amazing views and photo opportunities. We got some Sushi for a picnic whilst on our trek and started to follow our map.  It was incredible, first, after having to walk up what seamed like a million steps, we came across a temple, it was a temple that had sat there for hundreds of years and villagers still visited and kept it's upkeep to immaculate conditions. We wrote a wish plaque and continued on our way.  

Washing my hands at the temple...

We passed through a Iris field and trekked through a very windy and steep path through the forest where the noise of crickets was near deafening! The humidity was nearly 90% so this made it harder and I'm sure our t-shirts looked though we'd stepped out the shower! It was brilliant though and to be rewarded at the top by a breathtaking view of the valley with Mt. Fuji as a backdrop. On the way down we found a waterfall which we paddled in and at some points it was that steep, ropes were in place to help/assist you to almost abseil down; but it was awesome! 

Lunch...

The best picture we could get of Mt Fuji!

Rosie making some noise at the top of the Mountain...

So regrettably it was time to move on again to Kyoto. This used to be the Japanese capital until Tokyo was built but was supposed to be more traditional with more temples and heritage sites than you could throw a stick at. To get there meant we would have to (well not have to but we wanted to) get the famous 'bullet' train!! Yes, the Shinkansen! It was excellent; business men that boarded were ordering beer and sushi, we ordered beer and nibbles, it was like a plane but with loads of leg room. After every stop, only a few, you can feel the acceleration of the train as it pushed you back into your seat, it sounds like I'm exaggerating but we both felt it; we just kept comparing it to our 25hr Indian train experience! 

KYOTO

We find our apartment which is in the middle of a local neighbourhood with extremely narrow streets you can only fit a person or a bike down. Our accommodation is a newly renovated flat (only the second people to stay in it) it is immaculate and ultra modern with 2 ice cold beers in the fridge waiting for us; perfect! 

Kyoto is the place in Japan where you are more likely to spot a geisha, they are apparently quite rare to see, unless it is a fake one dressed up just for the tourists. We visited a few temples and shrines and made our way to the most visited street in Kyoto, lined both sides with restaurants and as narrow to walk 2-3 abreast. It was beautiful, we arrived there at dusk so all the traditional lanterns were illuminating the street as far as the eye could see.  As if on demand, a trio of Geishas came walking towards us, in their full dress and face make up; a rare but majestical site for any tourist or local. 

In this said street, we happened upon a restaurant, where, you have a 'stove' in front of you, whilst facing the kitchen/chef area. This then has a bowl of stock-like liquid placed on top and the stove lit, meanwhile, you are presented with a large dish full of different salads, bean sprouts etc and your choice of raw meat.  Then you add it to the bowl as you wish; another Japanese culinary experience which we loved! And whilst I'm on the subject, on our last night in Japan, we went to a restaurant were everyone sits facing the kitchen area (a typical Japanese restaurant). However, between us and the chef was a table/bar and then the hot metal surface where the chef cooks your food directly in front of you. We sat next to a lovely elderly lady who kept talking to us in broken English/Japanese, but she was so friendly and lovely and wanted us to try Japanese 'favourites', so she ordered and bought two dishes for us which were as you would expect: gorgeous! 

A Japanese tradition which is still practised today are tea ceremonies. We had to see for ourselves what it was all about, so we found and booked ourselves onto a course with a lady named Masumi. The whole of Japan are crazy about 'Matcha' tea which is apparently the healthiest tea you can buy.  So we arrive at her house and enter a traditional Japanese room where other tourists from Australia, China, Belgium and Hong Kong were to join us. She explained that she would demonstrate the ceremony and then we would all try to make some.  Firstly, she took a 'spoon', which was more like a thin, long piece of varnished wood with a curve on one end; she named this her "morning glory", yes, we didn't smirk either! The Matcha tea (which is more powder than leaves and bright green in colour) is then scooped up and put into a bowl where one scoop of hot water is added and then whisked with a fine bamboo whisk until it is frothy on top and then it is ready to drink. Being a tea conaseaur I was hoping for perfection but bitterly disappointed when it tasted like dirty dish water, perhaps it's just the British gentleman missing his Yorkshire tea bags? 

We visited a park which had beautiful gardens and we stumbled across a local man who had a lot of love for his beautiful cats...

We also visited Arashiyama bamboo grove; it was a place like no other. A quiet atmosphere which was very 'otherworldly'. The bamboo canes seem to go on into sky for miles in a direction that is almost perfectly vertical. The paths curved through the bamboo; enticing us to explore and follow its magical mystery.

Following research, we visited a place named 'Daitoku-ji'; a collection of zen temples, perfected raked gravel gardens and wondering lanes, a separate village/community within Kyoto. If you like Japanese gardens, you'll love this place. The main temple here was founded in 1319! Pristine rooms surrounded by perfect gardens.  Zen, incase you were wondering, is a school of 'Mahayana Buddhism', that originally emerged in China 15 centuries ago. Japanese Zen emphasises rigorous meditation practices, insight into Buddha nature and the personal expression of this insight in daily life; especially for the benefit of others whilst having no consciousness of theirselves. 

We conclude our Japanese chapter and have to travel to Hong Kong to get our visas for China processed. After following research, it is the only place to get a China visa if you are out of your country of residence. We had planned to visit Hong Kong after China but we will just do it the opposite way round! 

Japan was not a country on my bucket list but it was Rosie's, however, we have both found it to be an amazing country with incredible people who are extremely friendly and helpful...we would recommend anyone to visit no matter what your interests are!! 

DELHI TO THE HIMALAYAS....and a final farewell to AMRITSAR & INDIA

DELHI

We arrived in Delhi rather nervous and worried after reading all the scaremongering in the guide book, but what a pleasant relief.  Yes, you still get harassed every thirty seconds and tauts trying to con you but we were now well travelled and wise to these kinds of people and the tricks of their trade.

For example, we eventually found our hotel in a backstreet off a backstreet, checked into our room and wanted a shower to find it was stone cold.  Thus, rang reception and spoke to the hotel manager and owner to be told; "sir/madam, peoples don't want hot water in this weather". He had a point, it was still nearly 50'C outside but when you enter an air conditioned hotel room, that instantly cools you down, you don't want a cold shower! Following a light hearted 'discussion' he turned on our hot water! 

We visited the famous bazaars in Dehli, where there are hundreds of stalls selling almost anything you need, this is the man to come and see if you need a drill bit....

A second example; we visited the oldest Muslim temple in India named Jama Masjid. It can hold 25,000 people, has two of the highest minarets and you can climb 40 metres high to the top of one. We read that it is free to enter, only having to pay 100 rupees (£1) to take in a camera.  We arrive at the gate to be told by a 'worker' that we have to pay 300 each just to enter!  We had by this point grown tired and wise of the scams so proceeded an argument with this man. He was adamant so we went back down the steps to check the signs, incase the guidebook was now dated, but gladly the signs only confirmed what we knew! He was reluctant but then started with cameras; I said I only had one so his reply was; "mobile phone camera"?!...really..?! Finally we enter with just paying the camera Rs100 and wondered around. 

If you are unaware of the Muslim religion; prior to praying, individuals have to wash their feet, ankles, hands and arms. The temple had a large square pool in the middle of the courtyard where visitors did such practice. We joined them to watch and to cool our feet, as the stone floor of the temple was so hot we feared second degree burns to the soles of our bare feet (having had to remove our flip flops at the entrance as is customary). 

So we were the 'talk of the temple or pool', everyone staring at us and children giggling and pointing. But then a group of four girls and just one boy came and sat next to us to chat. I say chat, the only English they could speak was 'Hi' and 'Hello' but by them sitting with us everyone else around the pool started to smile, wave hello and we seemed to be accepted into the atmosphere; it was a great experience we thoroughly enjoyed! 

THE HIMALAYAS...MANALI & MCLEOD GANJ

We had always planned to travel to and around Nepal on our bucket list. The first earthquake hit Nepal the day before we left the UK but we had contacts in both Kathmandu and Pokhara who we contacted to confirm their safety. We were still going to go to complete some voluntary medical aid/humanitarian aid and some trekking, until the second earthquake hit! We decided then it wouldn't be fair to be trekking and exploring the country whilst they are in mourning and their country is a disaster zone. 

So what to do for the two weeks instead; visit the Himalayas still but the Indian side! We went from Delhi, on a 15 hour bus journey, to a place called Old Manali, a gorgeous village, 2000 metres up in the Himalayas with the Beas river running through the middle of it. Our room overlooked views of snow-capped mountains whilst sitting on our balcony, bathed in sun whilst listening to the relaxing sound of the the river below...idyllic! 

We did some trekking around the area and up a mountain or two and generally relaxed which is difficult in India. 

Rosie played with some monkeys in a nearby forest, they had a fascination with bottles...

A street performer earning some money in Manali....

The ever changing weather in Manali, which was a welcomed relief!

From here we took another bus just 7 hours West across the Himalayas to a place called McLeod Ganj. This place is known as 'little Tibet', due to the vast number of Tibetans that are living in exile following China's dictatorship. This is the Dalai Lama's home where he travelled, across the Himalayas in 1959.  We visited a museum which highlighted the ordeal that Tibet and Tibetans have had to live with for a number of years. Still to this day there are nearly daily occurrences of Tibetan's carrying out self-immolation (setting themselves on fire whilst shouting what they believe in) in an attempt to gain media coverage, but we, in the Western world rarely hear of these martyrs due to China's governing?! 

We visited the Tibetan Temple where, if you are Buddhist, you walk clockwise around the building, whilst holding your beads in your left hand and spinning prayer wheels with your right. 

We found a path around the back of the Temple which led up and around the side of the mountain. This path was strewn with prayer flags and constant 'stations' of prayer wheels you must turn when you walk past, alongside hundreds of monkeys which loved to play in the flags! 

Due to the height of McLeod Ganj, it was quite a number of degrees cooler than where we had previously been used to so Rosie was cold.  As you can imagine, hundreds of market stalls and shops selling Yak fur shawls (the warmest you can get) so Rosie had to get one and not take it off; it is sociably acceptable to wear a rug whilst in public there!

McLeod Ganj was amazing, friendly locals, Tibetan monks and a more tranquil place due to the numerous prayer flags hung from trees and buildings, moving in the wind like a birds wings as it flies.  Tibetan people are so kind that they leave food out for stray dogs and feed birds on a daily basis. 

AMRITSAR

Our last stop in India, the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion; 'The Golden Temple'.  Where pilgrims travel from all corners of the globe to show their respects to their god. 

We got very excited as the second night in Amritsar we visited the Pakistan border; Attari.  Every night they have a ceremony of closing the gates and lowering the flags; both India versus Pakistan. Where hundreds of locals and foreigners gather each night to witness the spectacular marching, dancing, shouting and competition between the two countries. India predominantly has more spectators than Pakistan so tend to make more noise but it is equal pride and honour! It was fantastic and one of our highlights of India!

So we visited the Golden Temple, regarded by some as more special and magical than the Taj Mahal. And by the way, it was mandatory for me to cover my long locks of hair!  

It was incredible to see Sikhism at its most sacred, as you enter throughout the gates you are greeted with a large pool, with a Golden temple, accessed by a walkway, in the middle of it. The golden dome is said to be gilded with 750kg of pure gold. The dome represents an inverted lotus flower, a symbol of Sikh devotees' aim to live a pure life. Sikh's wash in the pool and line up to enter the temple.  Sikhism seems to be a very equal and friendly religion, for example, everyone is deemed equal, whether that be a man or woman, unlike some other Indian faiths. 

It is a very 'giving' religion, food and money to the poor and looking after friends and family in times of their lives. The temple, in peak periods, feeds 80,000 people per day, all free and run on donations. We found the food hall and made our way to the queue.  We were issued with a metal bowl, plate and spoon and followed the crowd to a huge room, where on the floor, people sat with legs crossed on mats facing one another and a gangway down the middle for the 'servers'. We sat down in the row and before we could put our utensils on the floor, it was being filled with rice, Dhal curry, two chapatis and kheer - a coconut rice pudding. It was great, eating next to and opposite locals whilst being overwhelmed by the atmosphere and madness of it all; another highlight for us! 

We then went into the area where they wash up, which was amazing to watch; a feat of unimaginable proportions to wash, dry and clean up after all these people. 

And with that we went to the airport to catch a plane to Delhi, with a transit at Hong Kong and finally to arrive in Tokyo, Japan.